8 Days Trek and Climb
We offer private guided ascents of Batian Peak, the true summit of the spectacular Mount Kenya. After the trek in and acclimatization,
the technical climb is completed in one long day as a series of up to 21 pitches. There is a comprehensive kit list for a climb on Mount Kenya and previous experience of outdoor multi-pitch rock climbing is a must for this trip. We provide a technical qualified and experienced guide but the route is committing and long and participants would need to be familiar with leading long runouts, long abseils/rappels and putting in safe protection.
The risk associated with the hazards on this climb cannot be entirely eliminated by our planning or the decision making of the guide. Therefore, it is important that you fully understand the hazards and you are confidence that you have the relevant skills and experience to help control the risk.
The summit climb is long, usually around 11 to 13 hours to complete with the base of the route at 4600m and topping out at 5199m good acclimatization and fitness is essential, as well as the right kit for exposed conditions including mist, rain and snow and cold rock.
Overview
Days Summary.
- Day 1: Transfer from Nairobi to the Chogoria National Park Gate where we take a 4x4 up towards Meru Banda’s.
- Day 2: Trek from Meru Bandas to the Campsite at Lake Ellis.
- Day 3: Trek from Lake Ellis to Minto’s Camp.
- Day 4: Early start to reach point Lenana via Austrian Hut for sunrise and descend to Shipton’s Camp (or transfer to bivi point at base of Batian).
- Day 5: Climb Day: Batian Peak-Shipton’s Camp.
- Day 6: Climb Day: Spare day for poor weather – alternative climbs/trek if already summited.
- Day 7: Trek from Shipton’s to Lod Moses Camp.
- Day 8: Trek from Old Moses to the Sirimon National Park Gate and transfer to Nairobi.
Itinerary
Trek face approaches the peaks from east on the Chogoria route. Terrain is forested initially, entering moorland and high alpine desert and eventually onto rocky glaciated landscape. A visit to Point Lenana for acclimatization involves some scrambling on snow and ice.
The rock climb is usually between 16 and 21 pitches depending on rope length and confidence, group size and local conditions. Pitches vary from section of low grade scramble to around grade UIAA IV+ (UK V.Diff-Mild Severe, US 5.5) but with most being at around UIAA II (UKDiff, US5.3). This assumes we take the west side variation at Firmin’s Tower.
The rock is Nepheline Syenite which is similar to granite, blocky and abrasive with weathered fissures running vertically and horizontally offering good holds and friction. However, there are loose boulders, rocks and sandy scree in the amphitheaters and easy-angled couloirs, Helmets are essential.
Almost all the standard belay points are made with slings around rock spikes and boulders. A couple have pitons in place and one or two have a drilled bolt. Protection between belays is almost exclusively trad with self-placed nuts and cams placed and few pitons along the way too
When to climb Batian Peak.
The north face routes on Mount Kenya are usually climbed during the northern hemispheres summer (June through to August although September and early October could be a possibility too). As the Mountain is on the equator the sun will be slightly to the Norths. This means that there is less snow and ice, making climbing easier, with some sun on you and warmer rock.
Object dangers
The first and most obvious is the length of the climb. An average rope-pair will take around 11 hours for the ascent and rappel back down. Stamina at a fairly consistence grade will take energy, efficiency and concentration. Good past experience of similar routes will definitely help.
A second consideration is the altitude. Weight of bags and ropes and racks will appear much heavier at over 400 meters. we do have a good acclimatization programmed for the walk-in, but it will be important to keep hydrated and fit and well rested.
Further considerations are the cold and weather. Choose the right season and include a spare day for bad weather, it is common to have low visibility with thick mist, wet rock and a cold wind. This route does not get the sun until well into the day.
Price
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Quotation price Includes:
- Return transfers from Nairobi to Mt Kenya (private)
- All Park fees.
- All food while on the Mountain.
- Accommodation in mountain huts/ camping where applicable.
- All guiding services
- Porter support for the climb.
Not included:
- Personal clothing and equipment
- Tips and gratuities for guides and porter
- Beverages while not on the mountain